Have you ever waited for a holiday for nearly 20 years? Yes, that’s how long it took me to finally get on a plane to Rome! Having lived in Syria, the magic of Palmyra and grandeur of the columns of Apamea still resonate in my memory and soul. Since then, I had longed to go to Rome – to see the glorious remains of the Roman Empire.

Palmyra, Syria

Photo courtesy: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/palmyra-reconstruction-reopen-2019

            So when we booked our tickets, I was beaming with joy. A short two day trip dedicated just to the city. So as we packed our bags, I got busy looking up places to see, tours to do and moments to capture. My husband, for whom it was a second trip, concentrated on what he loves most – food! So together, we embarked on a holiday chasing the idea of la dolce vita!

            As we landed in Rome, on a sunny Friday afternoon, we headed straight to the city center. The Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is well connected to the main city. (I would recommend you take the bus which costs €7 instead of the train (€14).) The ride takes about 45 minutes and the bus drops you off at Roma Termini, the main railway station. By the time we got to the Termini, it was lunch hour so we decided to begin with the Mercato Centrale –  a vibrant food court serving up fresh meals at lightening speed. Kick-starting the visit with a glass of Prosecco and pasta is definitely a good way to ease yourself into the Italian experience.

            As we wrapped up, we headed straight to the Colosseum, for I just had to see it before beginning the trip as planned. Like a pilgrim to a place of worship, we single-minded moved towards it. Public transport (read buses) is easy to use in Rome – you can simply tap your card (the cost is €1.50 per trip). Having heard enough horror stories of theft in the metro, we did not dare to try it. 

            The bus dropped us a little before the Colosseum. And as we turned left, there it was. In all its glory. The first sight, with the sun rays piercing through the columns, giving it a golden hue, is a sight to behold. The structure is animate, I assure you, for it talks to you – of history, of stories, of legends and of imagination. Emotions abound, it was like love at first sight. And also, it reminded me of an old love – Syria. Nothing about the surrounding was Syrian, but the view of the Colosseum took me back to my childhood when I first had discovered the Roman ruins. Running up and down the stairs of the Bosra Amphitheater near Damascus, I was reminded of the winter in Syria. So, it took me a minute to realize the construction activity all around. And that I was in Rome.

Bosra Amphitheater

Photo courtesy: https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier:Roman_theatre,_bosra,_syria,_easter_2004.jpg

            As is a ritual for us, we start any city with a walking tour. These are great to immerse yourself into the city, learn a little about its history, but also its contemporary story. It is also the first local acquaintance that you make. There are many tours available in Rome – however, try the morning ones as you have more options. Our guide, with a heavily accented English, took us through her city starting with Altare della Patria monument located in front of the Piazza Venezia. Apparently mocked by the locals as the “wedding cake” building, the Victor Emmanuel II Monument sits at a crossroad of history and commemorates the unification of Italy. Currently, the metro project obstructs the perfect view of the monument as Piazza Venezia is inaccessible. Maybe for Roman it is tacky, but for a tourist, the structure is imposing and grand – a testament to the great empire that lies behind it, literally and figuratively.

            The next stop was the Trevi Fountain. As the night was falling, the city got busier and the crowds ballooned. The walk to Trevi through the bylanes kept us warm on a chilly winter evening. While the story of the fountain and the aqueducts drew little attention of the group, the wishing ritual got everyone excited. So, the legend goes that you must throw the coin from your right hand, over your left shoulder. The number of coins signifying the wish. For most of us, who threw one coin – it is said that you will end up coming back to Rome. I was instantly reminded of the phrase “Ahlan wa Sahlan” in Syria, which meant Welcome and Welcome – not sure if they thought of it as promoting repeat tourism.

            The fountain is so-so-so crowded that finding a spot for the ritual will be a task. Clutching tightly onto my handbag, we waded through the crowds to click the customary photo. Take a minute to take in the sounds of water, people and the sense of joy in the air. Our guide had given us the next 15 minutes, so we stepped into the Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi church. A small Baroque church, it is a haven of peace in the hustle bustle of the outside.

            Next up was yet another landmark of the city, the Pantheon. A former Roman temple and, since AD 609, a Catholic church, it will cost you €5 to enter. The lines are long, but I would recommend you make the effort. With churches dotting the landscape all around, the energy of the Pantheon is unique given that it has been a continuous place of worship. Its difficult to explain, but as the light filters through the oculus, it gives the sense of being in touch with the divine. Spend a few minutes to connect with the energy of centuries – a moment of a lifetime.

            The plaza outside the Pantheon is bustling with cafes, gelaterias, and street vendors selling many things from multi-coloured power banks and selfie sticks to the more monochromatic fake luxury handbags. You hear a lot of Bengali at this point in Rome. The migrant population making up the majority of vagabond sellers is difficult to miss. As the tour ended, we grabbed a gelato and sat on the steps of the fountain opposite the Pantheon to see the world go by. Tip: city water fountains are abundant and a great place to fill up your water bottles. 

            Barely a minute’s walk from the plaza, the evening was then dedicated to standing in line for the famous All’Antico Vinaio. This wasn’t the first time for us. My husband had insisted on it when we had gone to Florence. A must try for those who haven’t, it is a real treat and an experience in mass-yet-quick food service. Personal favorite – the El Paradiso sandwhich!

            The next day, having learnt that the Colosseum and the Roman Forum were free the first Sunday of the month, we queued up. In February, the Colosseum opens at 8:30 am. We reached at 7:45 am only to be at the tail end of a winding line that was easily 1.5 kms long. The hype of the place is only trumped by the possibility of free access! At 09:15 am, we finally made our way into the Colosseum. Do take an audio guide to help you navigate what was not only a place of entertainment, but also a microcosm of the Roman society in practice. 

            A walk through the Roman Forum, is a walk through history. I found myself missing Palmyra – the golden hue of the arches against the backdrop of the dessert and at least back then, barely any visitors, had really made it feel like time travel. The Roman Forum, with the city in its backdrop, is a constant reminder of the idea of straddling the past and present together. As you step out, do try the chocolate gelato at Angelino Ai Fori dal 1947!

            We then headed to the other side of the old city to the Spanish steps. Rome is a walkable city that lets you pace your travel as you like. For those looking to shop, the route to the Spanish Steps and the area around is the paradise you are looking for – from high-end to affordable brands, there is something for everyone. 

            An evening at the Piazza Navona, with its small lanes bustling with eateries is a must in the evening. While it is hard to miss Bernini when in Rome, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) is perhaps emblematic of its character. Of course, we went straight to the Ganga, represented with a long oar, symbolizing the river’s navigability. The Nile, the Danube and the Río de la Plata, representing the other 3 continents. In that plaza there, the  sense of familiarity the statue of Ganga invoked reminded one of home.

            And when in Rome…there is no end to celebrating food – from coffee, drinks, food and desserts, the city has got you covered. For dinner, we tried the CANTINA E CUCINA near Navona. For those who have the time, do visit the bohemian village of Trastevere. Like a faded postcard, it is warm and welcoming with a promise of good times! 

            For a weekend, Rome is the perfect holiday destination for it lets you decide what you want from it – a flavor of history, revel in the architecture, pilgrimage for the pious, indulge in the gastronomy, or dive into shopping. I was glad to have thrown only one coin – hoping that the city gods call me back soon for another adventure of la dolce vita!