As a travel writer, with any trip comes the unstated expectation of finding a peg (hopefully, new) to write about the place. So, as I planned my weekend trip to Jaipur, I wondered what would I be able to write which isn’t already documented! Doesn’t every monument in the city have at least a coffee-table book to its name? Haven’t we read, seen, felt and imbibed enough of Jaipur? The Pink City with its forts, the Hawa Mahal and market places…every destination presents tourism goals!

Also, it is nearly impossible to find someone to go to Jaipur, for everyone has been there already! You are almost judged the moment you say that you enjoy travel, run a travel blog, live in Delhi and have STILL never been to Jaipur. So after much cajoling, as it was peak summer, I managed to get a friend to agree to come along for her fifth trip! She agreed for her love for medieval forts and the many new stories you come across each time about them. The train journey to Jaipur was spent with mixed emotions of excitement and reconciliation with the fact that maybe this time around, I won’t really have something new to write about. However, I did wonder if I would  find a reason to go back to Jaipur.

The seemingly chaotic train station has an air of privilege. It is acutely aware of its stature, the clientele and the fact that it serves as the gateway to one of India’s most celebrated cities. Jaipur – the city encapsulates the brilliant 2016 Rajasthan tourism campaign with the tagline ‘Jaane Kya Dikh Jaye’ (you never know what you’ll see), where every individual’s experience is unique turning ‘Raja-sthan’ into a more personalized ‘Arya-sthan’, ‘Jane-sthan’ or ‘Huan-sthan’. Steeped in rich cultural heritage, Jaipur means different things to different audiences – historic sojourns, brush with royalty, Rajputana architecture, local cuisine, vibrant artisan folk, city of designers, retail therapy, literature festivals (plays host to India’s prestigious JLF) and now increasingly a destination for young aspirants wanting to crack various competitive exams.

The two-day weekend in Jaipur began with the formal entry in to the Pink City through the mighty gates that are intimidating and welcoming at the same time. The interiors of the walled city are true to the name and so uniform that it leaves you confused whether it is a blast from the past or a reality way into the future with old-style architecture. Such is the marvel of India’s first planned city!

The forenoon was dedicated to the very touristy Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar and the Albert Hall Museum. Each lives up to expectations and surprisingly, also to the postcard images (except the Hawa Mahal, as somehow one expects it to be grander). Despite the tourist footfall, sizeable local population and the hustle-bustle of a thriving local industry, Jaipur is incredibly clean with a pace of life that is relaxing, giving the city a pleasant small-town vibe.

Our afternoon was spent wandering through the by-lanes of the city markets.  Whether it was Bapu Bazaar, Nehru Bazaar, Tripolia or Johri Bazaar, each market place has its own character and specialization from textiles to footwear to exquisite jewellery collections. It is a welcome assault on the senses – a riot of color, mix of fragrances of itr (perfume), spices and street food, range of materials from leather to muslin, and the display of living heritage in the form of local art and craft. Time flies in these decorated streets!

That evening, we made our way to the City Palace for a Museum at Night experience. An expensive ticket and the evening timings make the Palace grounds almost exclusive. As we covered its length and breadth at our leisurely pace, the ground staff epitomized the local idiom of ‘padharo mhare desh’ (welcome to my land); they guided us at every step, offered to open closed exhibits, and volunteered information about the palace and the city (beyond the audio guide). By the time the Lumiere Show began, the sun had set and the palace was aesthetically lit to showcase its regal elegance. Sitting there I realized that we were only four people in the audience (us and a couple). Despite that, at no point, even as we left the ground in darkness to a city that was winding up 8 pm, did we feel insecure or worried. It was a sense of liberation; both relaxing and empowering.

The next day we made our way to Nahargarh and Amer Fort and the Jal Mahal. Situated on the Aravalli hills, the forts look familiar for we have all seen them in the many period films that Bollywood produces. Nahargarh, undergoing restoration, makes an interesting outing to see how the magic of the past is being recreated imaginatively with each brushstroke of the artists hanging from the walls.

Amer, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is perhaps the most formidable with a large moat and magnificent fort walls. While their grandeur makes for a breathtaking vista, it leaves you yearning for an opportunity to somehow catch a glimpse of their glorious past. For that, catch a sound and light show to witness history be recreated on the same canvas!

No trip is ever complete without chasing a food itinerary. For us this included Niros for Lal Maas (mutton curry), Lassiwala Kishan Lal Govind Narain Agarwal and Rawat Misthan Bhadan for Kachoris. While we chased these based on the reviews and local suggestions, the force of habit made us open up Zomato every now and then. We discovered Chool, a new school-theme restaurant in the heart of Jaipur that served fusion food (like Naan-Pizza) and Kokum near Amer Fort that served mouth-watering Dosa. These surprising experiments revealed that today Jaipur is an upcoming center for food start-ups (among others) that cater to tourists, locals and increasingly the young student population.

As our trip came to an end, I was left wanting to come back already. My next trip I knew would be entail a deeper dive into the confluence of Rajput and Mughal cultures, whether it be in architecture, dressing, food, music or matrimony. In that moment I realized that the first trip to Jaipur is like an initiation ceremony – one that lays down the possibilities and expectations to chart out the future course of action. You are a tourist in this UNESCO World Heritage Site city only once. Every subsequent journey will be curated by you to nurture a part of yourself!